Caroline Mora, 2xE: Expertise and experience
Hi Caroline, we often bump into each other at wine tastings, tours and trade fairs. How did you get into this very ‘male’ world of wine?
I'm multicultural, with a wealth of traditional European cultures. As far back as I can remember, from my earliest childhood, I've been raised by different accents, different languages and lots of travelling. My mother is of Italian origin from Piedmont, my father is Spanish from Mallorca. I was born in France in the Champagne region, so I'm almost automatically adventurous and interested in life’s wonders.
As a continuation of my higher education in international business, at the age of 20 I went on a university exchange to Beijing to learn Mandarin, economics and Chinese civilisation. After 3 years and my university degree in hand, speaking Chinese, English, Spanish and a little Italian, I headed for Japan, to Osaka, where I lived for five wonderful years. I worked there and learned Japanese, admittedly a little more easily thanks to my knowledge of Chinese J
I've always had an unconditional love for Japan, the people and their culture of beauty and goodness, their approach to precision fascinated me.
One day, while I was working at the Alliance Française, I heard that a wine importer was looking for a translator for a French wine event.
That was the first time I met Jean-Luc Thunevin JLT, in Osaka. I was the coordinator of his stay and his translator.
At the end of the 1990s, JLT's reputation was exploding due to his success in producing one of the best wines in the world, in his garage!
His business was expanding so fast all over the world that he offered me a job in Saint Emilion with the promise of regular trips to Japan and other parts of the world.
So, I thought about it and agreed to come back to France.
I think it was one of the best things that could have happened to me. I was in the right place at the right time with the right people.
Unlike most châteaux in Bordeaux, the history of Château Valandraud is not centuries old, dating back just one generation. Jean-Luc Thunevin and his wife Murielle Andraud settled in the 1980s in the medieval village of Saint Emilion, where nothing predestined them to work in the world of wine. Jean-Luc Thunevin had initially set up a restaurant and a souvenir shop, while Murielle worked in a hospital.
What made JLT and Murielle want to make wine?
They met Alain VAUTHIER, owner of Château Ausone, who was actually a childhood friend.
Together and with other people, they regularly tasted many wines, some of them prestigious.
What really triggered their desire to make wine was the tasting of a marvellous bottle: Château Petrus 1955.
It was on that day that their determination, their objective and their ambition to produce the best Bordeaux wine themselves was born.
How crazy is that?
Wow, and then what?
They bought their first plot of just about 2.5 acres on the outskirts of the village of Saint-Emilion.
The couple harvested the grapes for the first time in 1991, all by hand, as their means were limited.
Nevertheless, JLT is supported by Alain Vauthier.
Incredible as it may seem, in less than 10 years at the end of the 1990s, JLT and Murielle were producing bottles that sold for more than those of Château Petrus and La Romanée Conti.
Where does the name Valandraud come from?
The name Valandraud is very romantic and finds its origins in the combination of the name of the place where they bought their first parcel, ‘Vallon de Fongaban’, and the surname of his wife Murielle Andraud.
In just twenty years, Château Valandraud jumped two steps, from Saint Emilion Grand Cru to Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé.
This had never happened before in the history of Bordeaux winegrowing.
JLT revolutionised viticulture and oenology techniques by introducing de-budding and green harvesting (to eliminate excess bunches and ensure that the grapes were better positioned on the plant). He also introduced a rigorous selection of grapes during the manual harvest, which is still in place today, and all the other châteaux have followed this quality model.
JLT's obsessions are the taste and quality of the wine, as well as the health and ripeness of the grapes.
He always repeats: ‘without an excellent raw material, it's impossible to make a great wine!
After so many years, JLT still inspires many winemakers, oenologists, and producers in general throughout the Bordeaux region.
JLT also inspired you because you're a winemaker, so you know what you're talking about?
Yes, for over 10 years I looked after a small vineyard and had experience in winemaking.
I learned how to prune and work the vines with Murielle Andraud and vinification techniques with Jean-Luc Thunevin and Rémi Dalmasso.
It was an extremely enriching experience.
I imagine that over time you've seen tastes and wines evolve, particularly with climate change and fashion trends...
Looking back, do you think you're making better wines today?
I've been working with JLT for over 20 years now. The style of wines produced by JLT and its team has evolved over the years.
Respect for the environment has always been at the heart of our concerns, long before the climate change, we've been experiencing for several years now.
This led us to build a bioclimatic winery, a real technological jewel, where the concept of sustainability takes on its full meaning: electricity production with solar panels on the roof, semi-buried winery, putting grapes in tanks by gravity etc. Each wine reflects the vintage in which it was made and always shows the excellence of the Merlot, Cabernet, Sauvignon and Semillon varieties.
Our wines are even better today because every detail, from the pruning of the vines to the date of the harvest, the vinification temperatures, the toasting of the barrels, the bottling, etc., is carefully thought out. Everything is perfectly considered to please and reveal the purity of the grapes.
And years of experience are paying off!
Based on your experience and the wines you produce, what wines can you recommend?
I think it would be great if you could comment on each wine:
Virginie de Valandraud red 2018 : A ball of red and black fruit with lovely concentration and freshness.
Valandraud red 2018 : A massive jammy wine, complex and fresh, unfolds on the palate with multiple layers, an incredible taste experience!.
Valandraud red 2011 : A wine over 10 years old that hasn't aged a day! Very pretty fruit and great concentration, the latest Saint Emilion Grand Cru vintage.
Valandraud white 2023 : A nose of white flowers, round and honeyed on the palate, lovely acidity and sweetness, to drink or keep for years!.
Virginie de Valandraud White 2023 : Nose of pink grapefruit, nice minerality, great concentration and long fresh finish. Great with so many kinds of food, Japanese, French for example!.
Esprit de Valandraud 2019 red: Delicious red and black fruits with spicies, so silky tannins, just beautiful with meat or slightly spicy food. Wonderful value!.
Le Clos du Beau Père 2016 red: Great to drink from now with still very nice fruits and acidity and soon truffle hints should appear, delicious with red meat.
Le Blanc du Beau Père 2022 (the white): First white wine produced in Pomerol by Saint Emilion's Bad Boy 😉 Exotic fruits, beautiful acidity a new challenge in Pomerol!
Clos Badon Thunevin 2019 red : So rich and in the meantime so supple in the mouth, you take a sip and you will want another! A beautiful wine!
Mauvais Garçon /Bad Boy 2020 red : This wine tells you about JLT ‘s beginning in his garage, this is the nick name given by Robert Parker. The wine is fruity and well balanced, great for easy diner with friends such as a barbecue.
Apart from the wines of JLT and Murielle, do you have any special favourites?
There's no doubt that to make great wines, you need a lot of work, a lot of experience and a lot of skills.
The technical director of vinification, Remi Dalmasso, who has been working with JLT since 1998, and the technical director of the vineyard, Christophe LARDIERE, who joined in 2001, have also become winemakers and produce two delicious wines, although their production is confidential!
This is your chance to discover them, and they're among my favourites!.
Two delicious tiny productions of Saint Emilion Grand Cru maintained by 2 people totally involved in the respect of the environment and highly skilled as they have been occupying key positions in the vineyard for Christophe Lardière and in the winemaking for Rémi Dalmasso for more than 20 years of Jean-Luc Thunevin’s estates. They have been contributing greatly to the success story of Chateau Valandraud.
Clos Lardière 2019 Bee friendly Certification
Blending of merlot and cabernet franc, produced since 2017, only 2 400 btles in 2019.
Full bodied with pure and fresh but ripen fruits.
Clos Romanile 2019 Organic certification
Blending of merlot and cabernet sauvignon, produced since 2004, only 1 000 btles in 2019.
Smooth and creamy, very seductive!
Try and share them with your family and friends! 100% delicious hand craft wines!
Team Ewinex