Vice Versa 'Spinning Plates' Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

By far the winery's largest production (1,500 cases), the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Spinning Plates offers up scents of black cherries, cassis and a hint of graphite. It's medium to full-bodied, framed by silky tannins and mouthwatering acids. Approachable and fresh in style, it's one of the few reliably exported wines under the Vice Versa label, being sent to Japan and the United Kingdom.

On my last visit to Napa, I was able to taste with Vice Versa proprietor Patrice Breton, along with the winemaking team from Atelier Melka. Born and raised in Ottawa to French-Canadian parents, Breton moved to Montreal for business school, later founding a tech company. How does that old saw go? How do you make a small fortune in the wine business? Start with a large one.

Breton first came to Napa in 2001, where he worked with Paul Hobbs to launch his first vintage in 2003. Since then, he has become a Napa resident, having built a new home near the winery site in Calistoga. Now working with Atelier Melka, Breton says he enjoys the team aspect that Melka brings to the winemaking process. There are 12 wines—soon to be 13—produced in small volumes (total production is only around 5,000 cases).

Largely sold direct via mailing list, even as futures since 2013, the wines are uncommon in the market, although small quantities do make it into restaurants and retailers.